![]() Because they don't penetrate too deep, these are the simplest types of scratches to fix. Secure the socket in the floor outlet box with the included screws.Marks and clear-coat scratches affect only the surface and clear coat level of a car's paint job. Step 20Ĭonnect an electrical outlet to the wires in the floor outlet box in the same manner as the wall outlet box. Grout the spaces between the tiles after the adhesive has cured. Step 19Īpply adhesive grout to the floor along the tile path and lay down replacement tiles. Replace the moulding and any pieces of drywall that you knocked out beneath the wall outlet. Allow the concrete to dry per manufacturer's instructions. Fill in the conduit channel and area around the outlet box with concrete. Step 17Ĭover the outlet box with plastic. Check your wiring at the wall outlet if it is not. Check that the wire is live with the voltmeter. Secure the outlet box to the conduit with primer and glue. Pull the other end of the wire into the outlet box. Gently press the end of the conduit into the "L". Apply primer to the end of the conduit and then glue. Push the free end of the cable through the conduit. ![]() Sand down any rough edges with sandpaper. Cut the conduit with snippers or a hacksaw. Measure and cut conduit to reach from the bottom of the "L" to the floor outlet box location. Connect the bare copper wire to the green screw inside the box. Wrap the black wire around the terminal marked "Hot" on the free side of the outlet and the white wire around the terminal marked "Neutral" opposite the "Hot" wire. Slowly push this through the bottom of the "L" up until it emerges inside the outlet box. Trim off the white and black wire covers with wire strippers. Measure out a length of electrical cable long enough to reach from the wall outlet to the floor outlet with about a foot or so to spare. The bottom part of the "L" should rest comfortably in the channel. Step 12įit together an "L" shaped piece of plastic conduit so that it leads down from the outlet box and projects outward at the bottom of the "L." Test by fitting the outlet into the wall. ![]() Loosen the retaining screws on the wall outlet and pull it from the wall. Step 10Ĭontinue drilling out the conduit channel with the jackhammer a few inches past the moulding so that it ends directly beneath the wall outlet. Remove the floor moulding directly beneath the outlet box with a hammer and chisel. Remove the outlet cover and pull the socket from the wall outlet box. Test the outlet with a voltometer after the power has been cut to ensure that the line is dead. Turn off the electricity for the wall outlet at the main circuit breaker. Clean up the debris with a shop vac and broom. At the floor outlet location, carve out a hole big enough to hold the outlet box. Put on the proper safety equipment and carve out a shallow trench, about 2 inches wide by 2 inches deep, for the electric conduit from the wall outlet to the floor outlet location. These construction tools aren't as bulky as hydraulic jackhammers and are suitable for residential construction needs. Purchase or rent an electric jack hammer from your nearest hardware store. Gently wedge the pry bar underneath the tile, tapping it with a hammer as needed to drive it under the tile until it pops out of the grout. Take care not to damage the surrounding tiles as you work. Use a prybar to wedge each tile up from the row. Cut through the grout on all sides of each tile along the row with a rotary cutting tool and stone cutting blade. Mark off the row of tiles to cut with duct tape on either side to protect the neighboring tiles. You want the shortest distance between the two outlets but, at the same time, you'll want the path to pass underneath a continuous straight line of tiles. Lay out the path for the electrical conduit from the outlet on the wall to the outlet on the floor by marking it with the construction crayon.
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